The Port of Erbalunga

The port of Erbalunga, nestled in this iconic village of the Cap Corse in Upper Corsica, is a small natural harbor that serves as the beating heart of this maritime community. Located on the eastern coast of the peninsula, approximately 10 km north of Bastia, it is framed by colorful houses and dominated by the ruined Genoese tower marking its southern end. With its picturesque jetty, the port offers a blend of authentic charm, history, and functionality, making Erbalunga a living postcard of Corsica.

Description and Setting

The port of Erbalunga is a modest cove, sheltered by a natural rocky outcrop where the 16th-century Genoese tower stands, partially collapsed into the sea. The calm waters, a deep blue tinged with turquoise, host a handful of small fishing and pleasure boats, moored along the stone quays or to a few floating buoys. Pastel-colored houses—ochre, pink, yellow—line the port in a semicircle, their wooden balconies and shutters adding a warm touch. The jetty, extending the main quay outward, is a key feature of the scene, offering a promenade facing the Tyrrhenian Sea with stunning views of the village and the tower.

To the south, the port is bordered by a small pebble beach, while to the north, rocks jut into the water, creating a natural boundary. On clear days, the Tuscan islands (Elba, Capraia) are visible on the horizon, and sunsets, with their orange reflections on the water, are a cherished spectacle for visitors.

The Jetty

The Erbalunga jetty is a simple yet essential structure, built from local stone and extended with concrete blocks during modern renovations. It stretches about thirty meters from the main quay, forming a barrier that protects the port from waves and easterly winds. At its end, a small lighthouse or beacon (depending on the era) guides boats, though its role today is more symbolic than functional. The jetty is narrow—just wide enough for a leisurely walk—and its sea-worn stones tell a story of decades of exposure to the elements.

Initially constructed under Genoese rule (likely in the 17th century) to secure the anchorage, it was reinforced in the 19th century during the port’s reconstruction following storms or conflicts. Today, it serves as both a breakwater and a place for strolling, where locals and tourists pause to admire the scenery or fish with a line.

History

The port of Erbalunga has ancient roots, mentioned as early as the Middle Ages as a natural anchorage point. Under the Republic of Genoa (13th to 18th centuries), it became a strategic port, reaching its peak in the 17th century as Corsica’s second most active port after Centuri. It exported wine, olive oil, citrons, and timber while importing salt and grains, supported by a local fleet of about a hundred sailors. The jetty played a crucial role in protecting boats from bad weather and facilitating loading operations.

During Pascal Paoli’s rule (1755-1769), the port retained its significance, though its activity declined after the French annexation in 1768, as Bastia rose as a maritime hub. In the 19th century, the "American" Corsicans—returning emigrants who had amassed wealth—revitalized the village, but the port gradually lost its commercial role, focusing instead on fishing. Storms and marine erosion necessitated regular repairs to the jetty, with its current form partly resulting from 20th-century works.

Daily Life and Current State

Today, the port of Erbalunga is a lively yet peaceful place, with about a dozen fishing and pleasure boats. Fishing remains artisanal—red mullet, sea bream, and occasionally langoustines—though less intensive than in the past. The jetty and quays welcome strollers, while restaurants lining the port, such as Le Pirate (a local institution), serve fresh seafood dishes, attracting tourists and Bastia residents (15-20 minutes by car). In summer, the "Nights of Erbalunga" festival enlivens the area with seaside concerts, and the maritime procession of Saint Erasmus on June 2 sees decorated boats passing along the jetty.

The port is not equipped for large ships or mass tourism—there’s no modern marina here—which preserves its authenticity. The quays and jetty, maintained by the Brando municipality, withstand marine assaults, though reinforcement projects are occasionally considered due to erosion.

Why Visit?

The port of Erbalunga, with its jetty, embodies the essence of the Cap Corse: a place where maritime history blends with raw beauty. Strolling along the jetty, admiring the half-submerged Genoese tower, or savoring a plate of fish facing the boats offers a simple yet unforgettable experience. It’s a perfect spot for photographers, those seeking tranquility, or anyone wanting to feel the soul of an unspoiled Corsican village.