Port de pêche de Centuri

The fishing port of Centuri, located on the western coast of Cap Corse in Upper Corsica, is one of the island’s maritime gems, often described as one of the most picturesque and authentic in Corsica. Nestled in a small natural bay at the northwestern tip of the peninsula, it embodies the history, tradition, and soul of a Corsican village turned toward the sea. Here’s an overview of this iconic place.

Location and Setting
Centuri is about 50 km from Bastia and 59 km from Saint-Florent, accessible via the winding D35 road that descends from the heights of Cap Corse to the marina. The port is surrounded by houses with colorful facades, often painted in pastel tones, lining the docks and climbing the surrounding slopes. Opposite the port, the Capense islet, an ornithological reserve separated from the coast by a narrow channel, adds a wild touch to the landscape. A round Genoese tower, built in the 16th century at the port’s entrance, watches over this natural shelter, protected from prevailing winds by the configuration of the cliffs.

History
The port of Centuri has ancient origins, potentially dating back to Antiquity under the name Centurinum Civitas (6th century BC), though archaeological evidence is scarce. Under Genoese rule (13th to 18th centuries), it became an active port, the second most important in Corsica after Erbalunga in the 17th century, with about a hundred sailors and thriving warehouses. Wine, oil, citrus fruits, and timber were traded there, while imports included salt, grains, and tools. In 1757, Pascal Paoli, a key figure in Corsican independence, briefly turned it into a war port with a shipyard, strengthening its strategic role.
The port suffered a setback in 1794, when it was burned by the British fleet during the Anglo-Corsican conflicts, but it was reborn in the 19th century under the Second Empire, with reconstruction that solidified its fishing activity. Today, it remains primarily a fishing port, the most significant in Cap Corse, though small compared to modern standards.

Fishing and Lobster
Centuri is renowned as the "leading French port for lobster fishing," a reputation that has endured for centuries. The red lobster (Palinurus elephas), caught in deep waters off the Cape (between 50 and 150 meters), is the local treasure, often nicknamed the "red treasure." In the past, around twenty fishermen enlivened the port, also bringing in prized fish like dentex, red mullet, or gilt-head bream. Today, only a handful remain—five active fishing boat captains in 2023, according to recent accounts—but the tradition persists. However, suspicions have arisen: some restaurateurs may be serving imported lobsters (from Algeria, Morocco, or Tunisia) under the local label, raising questions about the authenticity of its "lobster capital" title.

Atmosphere and Daily Life
The port of Centuri is vibrant, especially in summer. Fishing boats sit alongside colorful nets spread out on the docks, while restaurants—numerous for such a small village—serve fresh seafood dishes, with lobster as the star (expect 70-80 €/kg for local lobster). Establishments like A Macciotta or Le Vieux Moulin uphold traditional, often family-run cuisine, where seafood dominates. Off-season, the atmosphere becomes peaceful, almost timeless, with locals reclaiming the space.

The port is not designed for pleasure boats—facilities are limited to fishermen—but it attracts visitors with its raw charm. A small pebble beach nearby offers a spot for swimming, while the Saint-Antoine chapel, 50 meters from the Genoese tower, adds a spiritual touch facing the sea.

Why Visit?
Centuri is a Corsican postcard: a photogenic port, a rich history, and an authenticity that endures despite tourism. The narrow alleys, views of the Capense islet, and sunsets over the gulf make it an unmissable stop on a Cap Corse tour. Whether to savor grilled lobster, stroll along the docks, or simply breathe the salty air, the port of Centuri offers an experience that blends nature, culture, and gastronomy.