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Le moulin Mattei
Col de la Serra Cap Corse Ersa Haute-Corse
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The Mattei Mill, located in Ersa in Upper Corsica, is an iconic former windmill in Cap Corse, often presented as a symbol of this wild and windy region in the north of the island. Perched at the Serra Pass at an altitude of 365 meters, it offers a stunning 360° panorama over the western coast of Cap Corse, the port of Centuri, the Agriates Desert, the island of Giraglia, and, on clear days, the Tuscan islands and even the Alps in the distance.
History
Built at the end of the 18th century under the name Franceschi Mill, it was part of a group of 14 windmills erected in Cap Corse, a particularly windy area, especially due to the libeccio wind. These "tower mills" were used to grind grain, but their use was short-lived: by the mid-19th century, most were out of service. The Franceschi Mill specifically ceased operation in 1834 after being struck by lightning and set ablaze, the damage being too extensive for repairs at the time. Abandoned, it fell into ruin.
In 1930, François Mattei, cousin and son-in-law of Louis-Napoléon Mattei (who created the Cap Corse Mattei aperitif in Bastia in 1872), bought the mill and turned it into an advertising showcase for the brand. Restored with a red-and-white conical roof and decorative wings, it became a commercial emblem, capitalizing on the fame of this aperitif made from mistelle, quinine, and local aromatics. After about fifty years, it deteriorated again.
In 2004, the Conservatoire du Littoral acquired the mill and its surrounding 3 hectares, restoring it to its 1930 state—as an advertising object—while preserving its heritage value. In April 2021, its wings were reinstalled, marking a new phase in its "third life."
Architecture and Environment
The Mattei Mill is a cylindrical stone tower topped with a conical roof of red tiles, featuring decorative (non-functional) wings today. Its restoration prioritized its symbolic appearance over an exact replica of traditional Corsican mills, giving it a unique style, sometimes criticized for blending authenticity with artifice. The surrounding landscape is typical of Cap Corse: low maquis with cistus, junipers, and immortelles, dotted with remnants of other mills (two ruined towers now serve as goat shelters). The flora includes endemic species like Corsican Erodium, and the fauna features tiliguerta lizards and Mediterranean warblers.
Access and Interest
Accessible via the D80 between Centuri and Macinaggio, the mill is a 1h30 drive from Bastia or Saint-Florent. A parking lot below allows you to reach the site in a 10-15 minute walk along a rocky path, marked with informational signs. In summer, a Cap Corse Tourist Office information point is set up, staffed by agents like Alizée, who share anecdotes and tips about the region.
The site is free, open year-round, and attracts visitors for its breathtaking view—from the Tyrrhenian Sea to snowy peaks—as much as for its history. It’s also the starting point for a themed hike, "The Shepherd Huts Facing the Sea," offered by the Cap Corse Community of Communes.
Why It Fascinates
The Mattei Mill is more than a relic: it’s a story of resilience (from natural elements to commercial repurposing), a cultural marker tied to the Cap Corse Mattei aperitif, and a natural lookout point. Less authentic than other ruined mills, it captivates with its picturesque charm and its role as a "postcard" of Cap Corse.
History
Built at the end of the 18th century under the name Franceschi Mill, it was part of a group of 14 windmills erected in Cap Corse, a particularly windy area, especially due to the libeccio wind. These "tower mills" were used to grind grain, but their use was short-lived: by the mid-19th century, most were out of service. The Franceschi Mill specifically ceased operation in 1834 after being struck by lightning and set ablaze, the damage being too extensive for repairs at the time. Abandoned, it fell into ruin.
In 1930, François Mattei, cousin and son-in-law of Louis-Napoléon Mattei (who created the Cap Corse Mattei aperitif in Bastia in 1872), bought the mill and turned it into an advertising showcase for the brand. Restored with a red-and-white conical roof and decorative wings, it became a commercial emblem, capitalizing on the fame of this aperitif made from mistelle, quinine, and local aromatics. After about fifty years, it deteriorated again.
In 2004, the Conservatoire du Littoral acquired the mill and its surrounding 3 hectares, restoring it to its 1930 state—as an advertising object—while preserving its heritage value. In April 2021, its wings were reinstalled, marking a new phase in its "third life."
Architecture and Environment
The Mattei Mill is a cylindrical stone tower topped with a conical roof of red tiles, featuring decorative (non-functional) wings today. Its restoration prioritized its symbolic appearance over an exact replica of traditional Corsican mills, giving it a unique style, sometimes criticized for blending authenticity with artifice. The surrounding landscape is typical of Cap Corse: low maquis with cistus, junipers, and immortelles, dotted with remnants of other mills (two ruined towers now serve as goat shelters). The flora includes endemic species like Corsican Erodium, and the fauna features tiliguerta lizards and Mediterranean warblers.
Access and Interest
Accessible via the D80 between Centuri and Macinaggio, the mill is a 1h30 drive from Bastia or Saint-Florent. A parking lot below allows you to reach the site in a 10-15 minute walk along a rocky path, marked with informational signs. In summer, a Cap Corse Tourist Office information point is set up, staffed by agents like Alizée, who share anecdotes and tips about the region.
The site is free, open year-round, and attracts visitors for its breathtaking view—from the Tyrrhenian Sea to snowy peaks—as much as for its history. It’s also the starting point for a themed hike, "The Shepherd Huts Facing the Sea," offered by the Cap Corse Community of Communes.
Why It Fascinates
The Mattei Mill is more than a relic: it’s a story of resilience (from natural elements to commercial repurposing), a cultural marker tied to the Cap Corse Mattei aperitif, and a natural lookout point. Less authentic than other ruined mills, it captivates with its picturesque charm and its role as a "postcard" of Cap Corse.